Oleic Acid in Cosmetics and Personal Care Products

What is Oleic Acid?

In chemical terms, oleic acid is classified as a monounsaturated fatty acid. Its formula is CH3−(CH2)7−CH=CH−(CH2)7−COOH. The salts and esters of oleic acid are called oleates.

 

Oleic acid chemical structure

Oleic Acid is primarily obtained through the hydrolysis or saponification of natural oils that contain high levels of oleic acid, such as olive oil or sunflower oil. This process breaks down triglycerides into glycerol and free fatty acids, including oleic acid. Fractionation techniques, such as distillation and crystallization, are then used to isolate and purify oleic acid from other fatty acids present in the feedstock. The resulting oleic acid is then refined and purified for use in cosmetic and skincare formulations.

Use of Oleic Acid in Cosmetics and Personal Care

Oleic acid has a wide variety of applications in cosmetics and personal care. Here are a few of its uses.

  • Moisture Retention: As an emollient, Oleic Acid creates a protective barrier on the skin’s surface, locking in much-needed moisture. It helps to prevent transepidermal water loss, ensuring your skin remains hydrated, soft, and supple.
  • Emulsifier: Emulsifiers are a core component of many personal care products since most moisturizing, nourishing, and protective formulations are emulsions. Emulsifier selection is crucial for the stability of an emulsion and significantly impacts the final formulation’s consistency and viscosity, color, odor, and functional properties. Oleic acid is commonly used as an emulsifier along with other co-emulsifiers.
  • Moisturizer: Combining oleic acid with other lipids (fats) boosts its skin-calming ability, making oleic acid helpful in reducing signs of dryness and sensitivity when used in this capacity.

Product Examples:

مثال Type
Face Creams, Body Lotions, Soaps, Body Butters Skin Care
Conditioners, Nourishing Hair Masks, Serums, Shampoos Hair Care
Lipsticks, Lip Balm, Foundation, Eye Shadow, Mascara Color Cosmetics
Soap, Moisturizing Body Wash, Foaming Body Cleansers Bath & Body
Baby Oils, Lotions, Creams, Mild Baby Shampoo Baby Care
Make-Up Remover, Micellar Skin Cleansers Skin Cleansers

Oleic Acid Formulation Considerations

  • Oleic acid is highly compatible with mineral oils, fats, and other plant derived oils.
  • Always add oleic acid in the oil phase of manufacture. The pH range to be considered when formulating with Oleic acid is 8-9.

The maximum usage level of oleic acid in personal care products per the CIR is as follows.

Ideal % Composition

Ingredient

>10%

Baby Shampoo
1-5% Baby Oils, Lotions
5-10% Bath Oils
0.1-5% Eyeliner, Eyeshadow, Mascara
1-5% Eye-Makeup Remover
10-25% Hair Masks, Hair Conditioners
8-15% Shampoos
5-10% Lipsticks
1-5% Foundations

>10-25%

Nail Base Coats
0.1-1% Aftershave Lotions, Creams
1-10% Face, Body, Hand Skin Care Preparations

Health Effects of Oleic Acid

  • Skin Irritant: Slight to moderate skin irritation has been observed with use of oleic acid. Oleic acid may cause slight skin edema with long-term use.
  • Comedogenic: A significant increase in lipid peroxide level of oleic acid was observed after 18 hours of UVA irradiation. The lipid peroxide concentration is positively correlated with the degree of comedo formation. For this reason, oleic acid is classified as highly comedogenic.
  • Non-Carcinogenic: No evidence of mutagenicity and carcinogenicity has been reported for oleic acid.

Conclusion:

Opting for products containing Oleic Acid can be an excellent choice for many individuals due to its ability to nourish, soothe, and retain moisture in the skin, promoting a healthier and more radiant complexion. Additionally, it can improve the texture and consistency of cosmetic products, making them more user-friendly and enjoyable to use.

While Oleic Acid may not be the most attention-grabbing ingredient out there, the tangible improvements it brings to both the skin and the overall product experience certainly merit attention. As with many skincare ingredients, it may take several weeks of consistent use to see the full benefits of Oleic Acid.

References:

https://periodical.knowde.com/

https://cosmetics.specialchem.com/

https://www.glooshi.com/

 

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