Formulating for Sensitive Skin
What is sensitive skin?
Sensitive skin is a lay term rather than a medical diagnosis. It is generally used to describe skin with reduced tolerance to the application of cosmetics and personal care products. In surveys, approximately 50% of women and 40% of men may report having sensitive skin.
The global sensitive skin care market is expected to reach US $80.1 billion by 2030, rising at a CAGR of 8.9% from 2023 – 2030.
Consumer Insights on Skin Sensitivity
As might be expected, consumer perceptions of sensitive skin may differ from dermatologist perceptions. For example, consumers frequently consider acne breakouts after product use to be a manifestation of sensitive skin, whereas to the dermatologist, these breakouts would fall under acnegenic or comedogenic conditions – and respective non-acnegenic and non-comedogenic product solutions.
Tips for Formulating Sensitive Skin Care
Formulating for sensitive skin can be challenging, since there is no agreed upon definition. However, the following highlights key and important points in the formulation of products suitable for sensitive skin.
- Less is more: Fewer ingredients are better than more ingredients. Many individuals with sensitive skin may demonstrate irritant or allergic contact dermatitis to a variety of ingredients; therefore, it is less problematic to use simpler formulations with fewer ingredients.
Furthermore, many cosmeceutical and moisturizer formulations are characterized by a complex cocktail of botanical extracts, which can cause allergic contact dermatitis. A diagnosis of which plant-derived material is causing the problem is also challenging since plant materials are composed of many different constituents.
As such, basic formulations with justifications for the purpose of every ingredient work better in sensitive skin populations. Ingredients that are added for market distinction or enhanced aesthetics should be considered carefully.
- Re-hydrate the skin: Humectants can hold water within the skin and also attract moisture from the surrounding atmosphere; helping it to stay plump, moist, and resist dehydration. Refined Glycerin known as a great humectant.
- Avoid vehicles that rapidly evaporate upon skin contact: Another sensory issue with sensitive skin is the rapid evaporation of materials from the skin surface. While this evokes a pleasant sensation of cooling for many people, individuals with sensitive skin may find it annoying. Furthermore, the rapid evaporation of materials from the skin may evoke flushing and blushing in persons with rosacea.
Many substances that rapidly evaporate from the skin are light-weight alcohols, such as ethanol, sometimes used in toners and after-shave preparations. These types of formulations are generally not appropriate for sensitive skin.
- Eliminate common allergens and irritants: It goes without saying that common allergens and irritants should be eliminated from sensitive skin formulations. However, the problem lies in identifying them. Irritants include anything that destroys the skin barrier, removes the intercellular lipids and denatures the proteins. Such ingredients include glycolic acid, lactic acid, urea, etc.
There is also the list of ingredients in dermatologists’ standard patch tests, including PPD, lanolin alcohol, parabens, fragrance mixes, formaldehyde, isothiazolinone, quaternium-15 and others. A quick look at this list might be helpful – although some ingredients are being phased out of cosmetic formulations.
- skin friendly pH: One of the characteristics of healthy skin is the presence of what is known as the acid mantle. This entity is so-named because healthy skin has a pH of somewhere between 5.2 and 5.4.
Highly acidic (alpha-hydroxy acid products; pH of around 3.5) and highly alkaline (traditional soaps; pH of around 9.5) should not be marketed to people with skin sensitivities. This also means care when formulating male shaving foams using potassium or sodium hydroxide as they will, by the way they are created, have a pH above 9 which can be irritating.
- Ensure ingredient purity: Ingredient purity is essential for sensitive skin formulations. For example, contamination of raw pigment materials with nickel, the most common metal allergen, must be avoided.
- Avoid exfoliants: Lastly, exfoliants should be avoided as they can damage the fragile skin barrier in those afflicted by sensitive skin.
Glycerin and sensitive skin
Glycerin is also a good choice for sensitive skin. Because it’s a natural component of skin, it helps to visibly calm redness and inflammation. It’s one of the gentler ingredients you can find in skin care products and can even help alleviate signs of sensitivity over time.
References:
https://cosmeticsandtoiletries.texterity.com/
https://www.bointernational.net/
