History and Applications of Micellar Waters

Micellar waters have been used for more than 100 years but recently, they have piqued market interest. The rush to follow micellar waters and their technologies has been described by consumer media and blogs as cult, with disciples eagerly accepting new micellar-based products and companies large and small flooding the micellar water space. According to Kingpin Market Research, the global market for micellar water is projected to reach US $209.3 million by 2026; up from US $147.6 million in 2020—growing at a CAGR of 6.0% between 2021 and 2026.

Where did this surge in interest for micellar waters come from? And why? Minimalist formulating driven by the clean beauty movement perhaps provides one explanation, as the general simplicity of these formulations demonstrates. The present article explores the long history of micellar waters, their claims and functions, and commercial examples. It also attempts to define what they are, in order to understand their recent market relevance.

History of Micellar Water

Micellar water has been described as a resurgence of cleansing practices from France in the early 1900s. As some sources report, in the days before traditional plumbing, the local water was harsh to the skin. French pharmacies therefore developed what became known as micellar water for women to use as a milder cleansing alternative; notably, mildness aligns with one of today’s market trends.

Other sources report that water shortages or inaccessibility to tap water led to micelle water’s development but the authors were unable to find primary literature sources to support these accounts. Decades later, Jean-Noël Thorel, founder of the French pharmaceutical brand Bioderma, was credited as the inventor of micellar water, which the company popularized globally in the 1990s; this claim will be explored in greater depth later.

As noted, France in the nineteenth and early twentieth century was characterized by a lack of plumbing and, in turn, a lack of hygiene and cleanliness. This was due in part to a lack of privacy, since most homes had no bathroom. Washing became confined to a quick splash of the hands and face about once a week. The idea of daily showers did not begin to penetrate the populous until the 1970s.

The micellar water story continues into the 1990s, as it gained popularity among makeup artists who, according to several sources, needed to quickly and easily remove makeup from runway models multiple times during fashion shows. Already a staple in French pharmacies, micellar waters became known for their powerful cleansing properties without causing irritation or drying the skin; one source proclaimed they melt “cleanly off skin with zero irritation, leaving no oil behind…” This efficacy, paired with the appeal of French high fashion, could provide another explanation for the market’s embrace of micelle waters.

Claims, Properties and Benefits

Today, micellar water is available globally. It is known as a product that looks and feels like water but removes makeup with just a few swipes of a cotton ball. It is even said to remove the toughest waterproof makeup. Such claims are exemplified by the brand Kiehl’s: “Micellar water is herbal-infused water (emphasis added) that effectively cleanses skin and removes makeup without rinsing, rubbing or scrubbing that has been used for over a hundred years, first gaining momentum in France, where it was designed to help Parisians avoid using the region’s famously harsh water on their face.”

In contrast, as noted, Bioderma claims to have invented micellar water in 1995, which is said to have “revolutionized the way people remove makeup and cleanse their skin every day.” The present authors did not find a patent or patent application to substantiate this claim of invention. However, based on its apparent market influence, Bioderma’s micelle water deserves a closer look to uncover clues to its relevance today.

The company reports its micellar technology is inspired by the cellular lipids in skin and formulated at the physiological pH of around 5.5 with highly purified pharmaceutical water to preserve the natural protective film of the skin.

micellar waters are not only convenient facial cleansers, they are multifunctional and can do much more:

SAVING WATER

Micellar waters are made with mild surfactants that keep the skin barrier intact when left on the skin. The biggest benefit therefore is that they don‘t need to be rinsed off. This helps save water, and we all know how important this is for the planet.

Removing the need to rinse after use makes micellar water a game-changing solution in every situation where facial cleansing might be necessary

MAKE-UP REMOVAL

Going to bed with your make up still on can clog the pores in your skin and trigger acne. Therefore, it is very important to always remove your make-up before going to bed. Even though micellar waters are very mild to the skin, they are still very effective in removing even the toughest to remove waterproof make-up.

SKIN CLEANSING

Getting up in the morning, most people wash their faces to remove oils, dirt and sebum, that settled down overnight. Using harsh cleansers can impact the skin barrier, causing irritations and dry skin. With micellar water cleansers you do not need to worry about your skin, but also do not need to compromise on the efficacy.

ADDITIONAL SKIN BENEFITS

When active ingredients are incorporated into the micellar water, this can have additional skin benefits. One can think of moisturizing or energizing ingredients or small amounts of plant extracts or oils to soothe the skin and further prevent skin irritations

Micelle Water’s functions:

A surfactant has two different poles: a hydrophilic one (which means that it is soluble in water) and a lipophilic one (which captures fat particles, the latter being incompatible with water). Whenever the surfactant is aggregated, it shapes into what is called a “micelle,” a structure that has the form of an invisible microsphere.

Water alone cannot cleanse away all the dirt particles that accumulate on the skin every day, especially the fatty ones. That is the reason why most skin care products contain cleansing agents called surfactants. … [A] large array of surfactants [is] used in cosmetics, and some of them can turn out to be unsuitable or too aggressive for the skin. During clean-up, they interact with the diverse components of the skin. Too much cleansing, particularly with abrasive products, is often as noxious as no cleansing at all.

The dermatology brand Riversol describes micellar waters as micelle-containing compositions that have similar viscosity to water. They reportedly can be used as a light makeup remover and cleanser all in one. They also require no water to work, do not need to be rinsed off, and are said to be sufficiently gentle and hydrating—even suitable for individuals with dry and/or sensitive skin. Consistent with this definition, dermatologist Z.D. Draelos, M.D., reveals that micellar water cleansers, also known as cleansing waters, contain water and a very mild surfactant, representing a dilute cleansing solution.

Micellar waters are products designed for dry or combination skin. They are recommended for an acne-prone skin type because, according to dermatologist Francesca Fusco, “they remove trapped debris from the skin but don’t dry it out.” However, skin care physician Tabasum Mir advises that, for oily skin, micelle water doesn’t clean as well for people with oilier skin. For those individuals, micellar water should be supplemented with a traditional facial cleanser for effective cleansing.

pH Balance

As noted in the Pears Soap ad, soaps in general are alkaline, with a pH in the range of 8 to 11, and this basic pH is known to cause skin irritation and damage. Bioderma highlighted its Sensibio H20 micellar water as formulated to a pH of 5.5, which is close to the natural pH of the acid mantle of skin. Could pH play a role in today’s market interest? Yes and no.

Formulations that are balanced to the pH of skin have long been known. Indeed, high school experiments to investigate pH balance in shampoos were published in the 1970s. Therefore, formulating at the natural pH of skin is neither a novel claim nor is it sufficiently novel to form the basis of a micellar water claim of the invention in 1991. The mildness of this pH, however, once again aligns with consumer demand as well as its association with skin’s natural pH.

Glycerin Benefit Ingredient

Many micellar water formulas are also characterized by the presence of glycerin or glycerin derivatives that are added as skin moisturizers. Could this be a clue to their relevance today?

The present authors traced the intentional use of glycerin in soaps to Pears soap, which was first registered by a Cornish man, Andrew Pears, in 1789—the year of the French Revolution. In 1807, Pears transparent soap was produced in London and it is still sold today. It is the world’s first mass marketed translucent soap. Andrew was concerned about the use of products on the skin, especially lead-based cosmetics, and by 1802, he advertised the product with the description: produced from vegetables only … allowed by many of the Nobility and Gentry to be the most simple and necessary affiliate to nature ever offered to a discerning public. It ameliorates, beautifies, and renders the skin perfectly fair and delicately transparent, without the possibility of its use being perceived; and by a trifling attention to its application, the beauties of this composition may be assimilated to every complexion.

Thus, pure soap with glycerin was being produced in London by the early nineteenth century and the product was promoted throughout the British Empire, Europe and America for its mildness to skin. This may be a clue to the historical use of glycerin and mild surfactants for skin cleansing, but not in micellar water because bar soap is not micellar water. At this stage, it appears the concept of micellar water is different but associated with the historical use of glycerin soap for the complexion.

Glycerin is a powerful humectant that draws moisture from the environment into the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and plump. This is particularly beneficial for individuals with dry or sensitive skin, as it prevents the skin from becoming dry or irritated during the cleansing process. Glycerin helps to strengthen the skin’s natural barrier by maintaining its moisture levels. A well-hydrated skin barrier is more resilient to environmental stressors and less prone to irritation and sensitivity. Glycerin has been shown to have soothing effects on the skin, reducing redness and irritation. This makes micellar water containing glycerin suitable for individuals with sensitive skin or conditions such as eczema or rosacea.

Natural surfactants for micellar waters

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

This is a great choice for the cleansing agent in your micellar waters as it is a very mild surfactant that does not irritate the skin or mucous membrane. It works well as a cleanser, despite being heavily diluted in this formula, and has a light, clear appearance that mimics the texture of water. Since it is partly derived from coconuts, Cocamidopropyl Betaine is often used in a variety of “natural” products, but it is actually considered “semi-synthetic”.