Eco-friendly beauty products are revolutionizing the cosmetics industry by promoting sustainability and minimizing environmental impact. These products often use natural and sustainable ingredients sourced responsibly to avoid harming ecosystems.
Sustainability has become an increasingly important topic in the beauty industry. Consumers have grown more conscious about their environmental impact, driving an urgent need to curb plastic pollution and subsequent demand for zero-waste packaging. Per Future Market Insights, the global zero-waste packaging market is expected to reach approximately US $2.5 billion by 2033 and expand at a CAGR of 8.8% from 2022 to 2032.
Zero Waste Efforts
While the industry has made strides, conventionally, many cosmetics come with excessive packaging, leading to unnecessary waste that ends up in landfills or pollutes the oceans. By shifting toward zero waste products, companies and consumers can reduce their environmental footprint and promote a more sustainable future, which in turn leads to a circular business model where there is huge opportunity to reinvent our industry.
Zero waste generally refers to the goal of eliminating waste entirely, for example Beauty Kitchen Company established a “return, refill and repeat” system, partnering with different collaborators to set up 100 refill stations in the UK to dispense shampoo, body wash, conditioner, hand wash and facial cleanser products. Beauty Kitchen collects empty packaging from customers to clean and reuse it for some products, and 32 of its products are Cradle to Cradle certified for their re-usable material content and circular design.
Solid Format Benefits
Solid format formulations offer an approach to beauty and personal care products that virtually eliminates the need for water in product formulations, in addition to offering savings in plastic packaging and logistics. A significant portion of most liquid shampoos (approx. 80%) and conditioners (up to 95%) is water, which requires larger-volume packaging and more fuel to deliver the products. Solid products are akin to concentrated versions of their liquid counterparts, boasting high amounts of active ingredients with little to no water – which also alleviates the pressure on our increasingly scarce water sources.
The environmental benefits of solid format formulations are manifold. Since they do not require packaging, they significantly reduce waste. Considering their concentrated nature, they also can last longer than liquid products and thereby reduce the frequency of purchase and associated carbon footprint; one survey conducted by Ethique found this extended longevity to be the case.
The benefits of bars answer the growing consumer demand for sustainable, eco-friendly products. One research firm reported the global market for shampoo bars was valued at US $10.8 million in 2022, which is projected to surge to $19.7 million by the end of 2031, at a 7% CAGR.
With the market for bars and solid products trending upward, it will be important for formulators to understand how to approach this solid product format, in addition to distinctions between and among types. These formulating considerations are outlined in the next section.
Types of Solid Formulations
Solid cosmetics can be categorized by their base (lipophilic or hydrophilic) and their level of aggregation, i.e., loose powder, bath bomb, bar, stick, cake, tablet, etc. Lipid-based formats, such as skin care sticks and balms, use combinations of waxes, oils and butters to create a solid texture that melts at body temperature, forming a soft film on the skin.
On the other hand, solid formats with a polar base can be formulated using polar, wax like ingredients that provide a solid structure while retaining their hydrophilic nature. Soap bars and syndet bars (synthetic detergent bars) fall into this category and are ideal for products that require lathering or emulsifying; e.g., shampoo and conditioner bars. Loose and pressed powders offer another solid product form.
Distinctive Composition of Solid Formulas
Contrary to common belief, solid format formulas are not merely solidified versions of liquid products. Their smaller, more concentrated form requires a different formulating strategy. For example, preservative systems or active ingredients must be adapted to the product’s low water content and highly concentrated form, respectively. Solid products also must give the consumer a perceived high value, since they are smaller and compared by the consumer with larger volumes of liquid products (thanks to their higher water content).
Solid shampoos and conditioners are also not the same as traditional soap bars. They are formulated with surfactants that work well in a solid format and are gentler on the hair and skin. There are two distinct categories of bars: soap-based and surfactant- (or detergent) based. Despite their resemblances in appearance and shared ingredients, the two function quite differently.
To know which type is appropriate for a given application, it is important to consider pH levels. As a quick review, it is well-known that the pH scale determines the acidity or alkalinity of a product and ranges from 0 to 14. Acids such as citric are lower than 7 (∼pH 2) and bases such as drain cleaner are higher (∼pH 14). Skin naturally maintains an acidic state, or “acid mantle,” typically between 4 and 5.5.
Soap-based bars: Soap-based shampoo bars are created using oils mixed with sodium hydroxide, an alkaline ingredient with a high pH value of 14. After the oils are saponified, this alkaline nature decreases but still retains a level within the range of 8-10. Such bars are not advisable for hair, although they can be used on the body. This is because skin can naturally restore its innate acidic levels.
To use a soap-based shampoo bar on hair, one should follow with an acidic rinse. This helps to restore hair’s natural acidity levels. Failing to incorporate this step may result in coarse-feeling hair that lacks the desired softness and smoothness since using an alkaline product on hair causes the cuticles to lift and become swollen. This makes hair more vulnerable to breakage and damage.
One possible solution would be to add citric acid to the bar, as it acts as a pH regulator to bring down the formula’s acidity level. However, if one is making soap via a cold process with raw sodium hydroxide, adding citric acid will diminish the saponification power, which is based on sodium hydroxide’s alkalinity. Therefore, reducing the pH to create bars intended for both the hair and body may compromise their cleansing efficacy.
Surfactant-based bars: A shampoo bar made with surfactants/detergents typically has pH level between 4.5 and 6.5, depending on the ingredients used. A well-crafted shampoo bar will have an ideally balanced pH because all the ingredients already possess low pH levels. However, if some ingredients in the formulation are more alkaline, acidic regulators like citric acid may be included to lower the pH level.
It is important to note that there isn’t much disparity in terms of ingredients between soap-based and surfactant-based shampoo bars. Both may employ the four common types of surfactants:
- Anionics, to aid in cleansing; such as Disodium Lauryl Ether Sulfosuccinate (SULFONIL DS)
- Amphoterics, to thicken and reduce the irritation potential of other surfactants; such as different types of betaines (Amphonil CF+ and Amphonil C45) and Amphonil CAS.
- Nonionics, to boost foam – and used in small amounts since they typically have a high pH and can create a drying sensation, for example: Iramid CD, Iramid CM, Iramid VD, and Iramid PKD
- Cationics, mostly used in conditioners or 2-in-1 shampoo-conditioners. Due to the negative charge of hair, their positive charge can effectively seal hair cuticles and reduce hair’s vulnerability to damage.
Additional ingredients: Both types of bars will also likely contain emollients such as cocoa butter and fatty alcohols that lend solidity to the product. Essential oils may also be added for aromatic properties, enhancing the sensory experience of the products.
It can be further enriched with vitamins, botanical extracts and active ingredients, easily incorporated into Phase B or C, to add value to the product. Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) also could be incorporated for its moisturizing and strengthening properties, or phytokeratin to fortify hair and lend shine and bounce.
Formulating And Production Tips
Various additional considerations can support zero-waste product development efforts. Following are some tips.
- Ingredient sourcing: Choose natural and organic ingredients that are sustainably harvested and have minimal impact on the environment. Look for suppliers the prioritize eco-friendly practices, such as using renewable energy or recycling water. Example: Instead of using synthetic fragrance oils, opt for essential oils derived from sustainably grown plants. This not only reduces waste but also offers the added benefit of natural aromatherapy. You can use Oleochemical ingredients such as Glycerin and Betaine in your formulations, this ingredients are mild with hair and skin.
- Minimalist formulations: Keep the number of ingredients in formulations to a minimum. Simplifying the formula can reduce waste during production and decrease the chances of allergenic reactions in consumers. Focus on multi-functional ingredients that can serve multiple purposes, reducing the need for additional additives.
- Packaging considerations: If packaging is necessary, choose that which is recyclable, reusable or biodegradable. Look for materials made from post-consumer recycled content or explore innovative packaging solutions that minimize waste.
- Waste management: Implement proper waste management strategies during the manufacturing process. Incorporate recycling and waste reduction programs within your facility. Look for ways to repurpose or upcycle waste materials generated during production to minimize overall waste.
- Education and communication: Inform and educate consumers about the importance of zero-waste cosmetics and how they can contribute to a more sustainable beauty routine. Also provide guidance on proper product use and storage to maximize their lifespan. Example: Include instructions on product packaging or on your website to guide customers about how to use the product sparingly or store it properly, thereby reducing unnecessary waste.
- Cold Process Techniques: Using ingredients like Irasoft O18 supports cold processing, which in turn lowers energy consumption during manufacturing.
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